Fitzpatrick Scale and its use cases with Powder Brows
What is your type?
Navigating the realm of Permanent Makeup (PMU) necessitates a profound understanding of the skin. As PMU artists, the importance of the underlying theory parallels that of practical skills, with certain key concepts crucial to ensuring optimal results. One such concept that PMU artists must master is the Fitzpatrick Scale.
“Mastering the Fitzpatrick Scale is integral to upholding safety, achieving superior results, and providing tailored care within the PMU and Powder Brows industry. For professionals, it’s a matter of maintaining their industry acumen, while for clients, it enables the formation of realistic expectations concerning Powder Brows.”
Background of the Fitzpatrick scale
The Fitzpatrick Scale, sometimes referred to as the Fitzpatrick Skin Typing Test or Fitzpatrick Prototyping Scale, is a numerical classification schema for human skin color. It was developed in 1975 by Thomas B. Fitzpatrick, a Harvard Medical School dermatologist, as a way to estimate the response of different types of skin to ultraviolet (UV) light. It remains a useful tool for dermatologists and other skin professionals, including those in the permanent makeup (PMU) and Powder Brows field.
Skin types according to the Fitzpatrick Scale
The Fitzpatrick Scale ranges from Type I to Type VI and measures the skin's ability to tan or burn under sun exposure. To classify different skin types into categories, Fitzpatrick Skin Typing Test is used. It is a diagnostic tool that determines how different types of skin respond to Ultraviolet (UV) light. The test is a self-reported questionnaire that asks about an individual's genetic disposition (hair color, eye color, and the presence of freckles) and reaction to sun exposure. The results of the Fitzpatrick Test are then assigned to one of six categories, known as Fitzpatrick Skin Types.
Copyright 2023 Powderbrows.com
Type I. Very fair skin, usually with freckles, red or blonde hair, and blue eyes. This skin type burns very easily and does not tan at all. Such clients are often redheaded, pale, practically white-skinned Caucasians. Type I = scores 0–6.
For such clients, warmer pigments should be used, often with the undertones of honey color and pure yellow.
Copyright 2023 Powderbrows.com
Type II. Fair skin, usually with blonde or light brown hair and blue, green, or hazel eyes. This skin type burns easily and tans with difficulty. Those are usually light blond-haired Caucasians and Northern Asians. Type II = scores 7–13.
Similarly to the first type, the artist should go for warmer colors, Sunset schema, and a mixture of yellow and some red.
Copyright 2023 Powderbrows.com
Type III. Medium skin, usually with darker hair and eyes. This skin type may burn but tans more easily. Typically such clients are Caucasian with slightly darker skin color and darker hair. Also, this type is very common in many European countries. Type III = scores 14–20.
For such clients, the artist has more freedom to mix pigments. However, the rule of thumb is that the pigment warmth should balance the natural undertones of the skin. if the skin is colder, the mixture should be warmer (and vice versa).
Copyright 2023 Powderbrows.com
Type IV. Olive or light brown skin, usually with dark hair and dark eyes. This skin type rarely burns and tans with ease. This type is common among Southern European clients, with dark brown hair and a bit darker skin tone (Spanish, French, Medierreinian, etc), also artists have said that that skin type is common in many regions in Russia (and former Soviet states). Type IV = scores 21–27.
For those clients, artists have also more freedom when mixing pigments. Many have said, they opt for mixtures containing more red than yellow. Obviously, it depends also on the natural color of clients' natural body hair.
Copyright 2023 Powderbrows.com
Type V. Brown skin. This skin type very rarely burns and tans very easily.
This type is common among African and Indian and Mexican clients. It is not the darkest but is close to that. Type V = scores 28–34. Pigments with colder undertones can be used, also mixtures containing more red and black color tones can be used with less risk.
Copyright 2023 Powderbrows.com
Type VI. Dark brown or black skin. This skin type never burns and tans very easily. Those are African and Australian clients, typically. The skin is naturally very dark and when tanned it gets even a bit darker (close to blackish). Type VI = scores 35–36. For such clients, dark mixtures should be used to achieve noticeable transformation when creating powder brows.
Many artists have also confessed, that such clients may sometimes be the hardest ones to deal with because of the peculiarities of the skin. Lots of such clients do not qualify for microblading because there is little chance that the pigment would stay in the skin. Nevertheless, several artists have also reported great results with Type VI clients after the retouching. There are cases, when even a second retouch may be necessary to achieve desired retention.
The Fitzpatrick Scale is important to the PMU and Powder Brows field for several reasons. Firstly, the pigments used in these procedures interact with the client's natural skin color to create the final shade. Understanding the client's skin type allows the technician to select the correct pigment to achieve the desired color result.
Additionally, different skin types respond differently to the PMU procedure and heal at different rates. For example, darker skin types (V and VI) are more prone to keloid formation or hyperpigmentation. Hence, the technician must adjust the technique according to the client's Fitzpatrick skin type.
Moreover, aftercare recommendations may also vary by skin type. Clients with lower Fitzpatrick types are typically more sensitive to sunlight and may require additional precautions to protect their newly tattooed brows from UV exposure.