Heavy metals and carcinogens in some Powder Brows pigments
Heavy metal is not to be taken lightly
Permanent Makeup (PMU) pigments, akin to tattoo inks, have been known to occasionally contain substances that may potentially pose health risks. While it's evident that manufacturers have made considerable strides over the years to ensure the safety of these pigments by eliminating harmful ingredients, they've also made efforts to ensure they appear benign. However, whether you're considering the Powder Brows procedure as a client or a professional artist, there are certain things you should be aware of.
“Many experienced and wise artists caution against defending pigments known to contain trace amounts of carcinogens. Despite the seemingly insignificant quantities, the court of public opinion often proves unforgiving. The vast majority of clients don’t peruse scientific papers nor express a deep interest in the minutiae of pigment composition. Rather, they draw a dauntingly simple equation, associating the artist with a “potential carcinogenic threat,” branding them with a reputational stain that’s nearly impossible to erase. That is not the hill to die on.”
Heavy Metals and other harmful substances
Typically the heavy metals that can be found in pigments can be metals like lead, mercury, cadmium, chromium, and nickel. Heavy metals can accumulate in the body over time, and at high levels, they can potentially cause health problems. For instance, lead is neurotoxic and can affect the nervous system, while cadmium and chromium are known carcinogens. When it comes to heavy metals being inside the pigments, that should not be taken lightly and there is no good explanation to calm the client down, when such pigments are used. There are some actual risks, the risk to the reputation of the artist, and also a certainty that the pigment may not fade off at all as expected. Thus, in summary, there is no good reason to use pigments that contain heavy metals (even though they look bright and beautiful when it comes to the color in bottles).
Azo Pigment colorants
These are synthetic colorants that may release aromatic amines, some of which are potentially carcinogenic. They are also associated with allergic reactions and other health problems. Nowadays those substances are also forbidden in many regions.
Polycyclic Aromatic Hydrocarbons (PAHs)
PAHs are a group of chemicals that occur naturally in coal, crude oil, and gasoline. Some PAHs are carcinogenic and can cause skin irritation and other health issues.
Phthalates
These are a group of chemicals often used to increase the flexibility and longevity of plastics. They can potentially disrupt hormones and have been linked to a variety of health issues, including reproductive problems and certain types of cancer.
Preservatives like formaldehyde
These substances can cause allergic reactions in some individuals and are also classified as potential human carcinogens.
Endocrine disruptorsThese are chemicals that may interfere with the body's endocrine (hormone) system and produce adverse developmental, reproductive, neurological, and immune effects.
It's worth noting that these substances are not guaranteed to be in every PMU pigment, and many manufacturers ensure their products meet safety standards. However, as a client one needs to be aware of these potential risks because it is always better to be aware of everything concerning one's body.
When it comes to artists, then one should understand that there is some sort of confrontation with the clients (or other artists on social media groups, etc) that is just not reasonable to cultivate. One of those is an explanation about why the actual amount of cancerogenic in Powder Brows and PMU pigments, in general, is too small to cause cancer.
No matter how solid scientific proof one could produce, there is no way to gain anything from defending pigments that contain carcinogens. Artists (even experienced and highly intelligent ones) have warned against trying to defend the pigments that contain little quantities of cancerogenic substances. You may win a battle, but you will lose the war. Far majority of clients never take the time to read scientific papers nor does it even interest them that much. What they do, is generate a huge "=" sign between the artist and a "cancer propagating potentially sociopathic killer," and that is it. No matter how many thousands of kittens you save in your life after that or how many charities you start, it is close to impossible to get that stain off your public image.
However, just to get a general idea of how much cancerogenic there are around us, let us look at some sources more closely in the next section.
Understanding the actual risks related to carcinogen substances
It's essential to recognize that we exist in a world where trace amounts of carcinogens permeate our everyday environment, food, and cosmetic products. The complete eradication of all forms of carcinogens from our lives is not only impossible but also might not significantly improve our overall health or prevent cancer. Let's delve into why this is the case.
Carcinogens are substances or exposures that can lead to cancer. However, their presence doesn't guarantee that cancer will occur; rather, it merely increases the risk. For instance, consider some common everyday carcinogens.
Acrylamide as a carcinogen
This chemical is formed when starchy foods like potatoes or bread are cooked at high temperatures (above 120°C), such as frying, roasting, or baking. While it has been linked to an increased risk of certain types of cancer, the amount consumed in a typical diet is generally considered too low to be of concern. However, when it comes to facts in black and white: it is cancerogenic.
Alcohol as an actual factor
Regular heavy drinking is linked to several types of cancer, including mouth, throat, esophagus, liver, and breast. Although a far majority of people who drink rather substantially and regularly find a way to explain to themselves that the quantity they consume is "low," or "insignificant," then often that is not the case. There is clear scientific causality between alcohol consumption and the risk of cancer. It is rather hard to draw the line on how much drinking is still tolerable so that there was no actual "significant" risk, as it all depends on the overall health, lifestyle, age, body mass, body consistency, inherited proclivities, etc. However, one can make a case that it is rather hypocritical to attack all other products that include microscopic and rather insignificant quantities of cancerogenic while drinking heavily.
Processed Meats as a source of carcinogens
Foods like bacon, ham, salami, and some sausages contain substances like nitrates that can lead to the formation of potentially cancer-causing (carcinogenic) chemicals. Nevertheless, consuming these in moderation as part of a balanced diet is not likely to significantly raise cancer risk.
Smoking is a sure bet to increase the risk of cancer
While tobacco itself is not ingested, its smoke contains a plethora of carcinogens. Still, not everyone who smokes develops cancer, illustrating that other factors like genetic predisposition and lifestyle also play significant roles. All we said about drinking heavily, also applies to smoking and the consumption of tobacco in all sorts of other ways.
All sorts of cosmetics
Some beauty and personal care products may contain trace amounts of carcinogens or substances that can be carcinogenic under certain conditions. However, the small quantities present in these products typically do not pose a significant risk.
Each of these examples underscores a crucial point: cancer is a multifactorial disease, meaning it rarely arises from a single cause. Instead, a combination of genetic, lifestyle, and environmental factors typically converge to trigger the development of cancer. The dose and duration of exposure are critical when it comes to carcinogens. Small, infrequent exposures are unlikely to pose a significant risk, while larger or more frequent exposures increase the likelihood of cancer development. Moreover, our bodies have evolved mechanisms to deal with a certain amount of these harmful substances, repairing or eliminating them before they cause damage.
While it's wise to minimize unnecessary exposure to carcinogens, we must understand that their mere presence doesn't spell doom. To substantially reduce cancer risk, a holistic approach that includes a balanced diet, regular exercise, adequate sleep, stress management, and regular medical check-ups should be adopted. Rather than focusing solely on avoiding carcinogens, we should concentrate on promoting overall health and resilience.
Reading the labels
Lastly, let us look at some CI codes all professional Powder Brows artists should be aware of. Those codes on pigment bottles and tubes start with "CI", which stands for "Color Index" (as this is an internationally recognized method for identifying pigments and dyes). Here are a few examples of colorants starting with "CI" to know.
CI 15850 (Red 7). This is a synthetic red pigment commonly used in cosmetics. It is generally considered safe but may cause allergic reactions in some individuals.
CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499 (Iron Oxides). These are naturally occurring minerals used as coloring agents in cosmetics. They are available in various shades such as red, yellow, and black. Although compared to many other substances used in pigments that do not contain metals, those are less cancerogenic, still many regions have forbidden pigments that contain Iron oxides. If the health officials in your regions have done it or deemed those to be "risky," "highly undesirable," etc, then defending pigments containing those may not be the hill you as a Powder Brows artist wish to die on.
CI 77288 (Chromium Oxide Greens). This is a green pigment derived from chromium. It is widely used in cosmetics and is generally considered safe, but chromium can be harmful in certain forms.
CI 77007 (Ultramarines). This is a synthetic blue pigment derived from the mineral lapis lazuli. It's considered safe for external use but is not approved for use in lip products in the US due to the possibility of ingestion.
CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide). This is a naturally occurring mineral used as a white pigment and sunscreen agent in cosmetics. It is generally considered safe but has been associated with some health concerns when inhaled in powder form.
CI 75470 (Carmine). This is a red pigment derived from the cochineal insect. While natural, it can cause allergic reactions in some individuals.
CI 77289 (Chromium Hydroxide Green). This is a bright green pigment derived from chromium. Like CI 77288, it's generally considered safe but chromium can be harmful in certain forms.
CI 77510 (Ferric Ferrocyanide). This is a synthetic, inorganic blue pigment. It is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics.
Remember, not all pigments are appropriate for all uses, and some pigments may be prohibited for certain applications depending on regional regulations. Always ensure that PMU pigments are sourced from reputable manufacturers and conform to the relevant safety standards. Additionally, even when using very high-quality pigments, if there is a concern that the client may experience some allergic reaction you should hedge your bets: sign a contract, ask the client to get permission for the procedure from a dermatologist, and, if needed, or consider doing a patch test.