The basic facts to know when learning about pigments
Let us be objective.
In the intricate universe of pigments, a critical approach is paramount. The voices discussing this topic are frequently influenced by their alliances with specific producers, and their objective often tilts towards endorsing what they deem to be the "ultimate" pigments. This article aims to strip away the artifice and explore some universally accepted facts and observations regarding pigments.
“Navigating the realm of pigmentology in the brow industry can often resemble the blind leading the blind – actions guided by the best of intentions, yet frequently falling short due to limited resources and understanding. The antidote to falling prey to the marketing prowess of others is knowledge. Equipping oneself with the requisite facts and understanding is the most effective compass in this complex territory.”
Assessing Your Information Source: A Holistic Approach to Understanding Pigments
In the quest to comprehend the nature and use of pigments in Permanent Makeup (PMU), it's imperative to approach your sources of information with a critical eye. Understanding "pigmentology" requires a fusion of expertise spanning across multiple disciplines - chemistry, science, biology, anatomy, biochemistry, physics, dermatology, sales and marketing, and even philosophy. Unfortunately, many trainers in the PMU world lack a comprehensive understanding of these interconnected domains. As a result, they may resort to employing a cascade of unfamiliar terms blended with emotive rhetoric. Their statements, while not outright falsehoods, may fail to present a balanced view of the truth. As listeners or viewers, we often find ourselves overwhelmed by such a flurry of information and may succumb to accepting confident assertions and obscure terminology as fact. We urge you not to fall into this trap. At Powderbrows.com, we're dedicated to demystifying this topic in an objective and meticulous manner, ensuring you're well-equipped to navigate the complex world of PMU pigments.
Organic vs. Inorganic: Defining Pigment Composition
A primary aspect to understand about pigments pertains to their classification as either organic or inorganic. In general chemistry, the term "organic" refers to any chemical compound that contains carbon, typically linked to elements such as hydrogen, oxygen, or nitrogen. In the world of PMU, organic pigments refer to those derived from carbon-based compounds. These pigments are usually vibrant, have strong tinting strength, and are highly resistant to sunlight, but they can also be more reactive and less stable than their inorganic counterparts.
On the other hand, inorganic chemistry involves compounds that lack carbon, including minerals and elements such as titanium, iron, and copper. In terms of PMU, inorganic pigments are derived from these mineral sources. They tend to be more stable, resistant to change in different environments, and less bright than organic pigments. They are often used for their durability and resistance to fading.
Understanding the distinction between organic and inorganic is fundamental in pigmentology. This basic terminology is the foundation for deeper exploration into the composition and behavior of PMU pigments, and it's essential not to let oneself be confused by it.
The Production and Sources of PMU Pigments: A Reality Check
When it comes to the majority of PMU pigments, it is crucial to understand the reality of their production and composition. The concept of "natural" components in these pigments can be somewhat misleading.
It's important to recognize that there's no "natural and safe" pigment production exclusively aimed at products for skin implantation, such as those used in the Powder Brows procedure. Most pigments serve broader purposes, including cosmetics, food coloring, painting, textiles, and plastics.
Regarding pigment sources, they often originate from substances that may not seem natural at first glance. Here are a few typical examples:
"Channel technology" refers to the process of creating pigments from crude oil and natural gas. It involves combusting these fossil fuels under controlled conditions and collecting the resultant soot, which is then refined into pigment.
Furnace production of pigments also involves crude oil. Here, heavy residues from crude oil refining are burned at high temperatures to produce carbon black, a widely used pigment in various industries.
Ethylene gas, a hydrocarbon derived from natural gas and crude oil, is also used in the production of pigments. It's polymerized to create polyethylene, which is then used to produce colorants.
Pigments are also derived from animal parts. For example, bone black or ivory black pigments are produced from the charred bones of animals. Some red pigments are derived from cochineal insects, while others have been historically sourced from the crushed shells of beetles.
Certain pigments used in the beauty industry are derived from metals, some of which can be harmful. For instance, chrome yellow, cadmium red, and lead white are all pigments sourced from metals with recognized health risks.
The key takeaway is that the sources of pigments are often complex and typically derived from chemical processes. The term "natural" in pigment production can be more about marketing than about the actual components and processes involved.
Primary Colors in PMU Pigments: Origins and Controversies
A key fact about pigments used in the brow industry is that they are fundamentally composed of three colors: red, yellow, and black. Each of these colors has unique sources and substances.
Yellow pigments in PMU are commonly derived from a variety of sources. This includes natural minerals such as ochre and synthetic pigments derived from chemical compounds like diarylide yellow. Azo pigments, made from nitrogen-containing compounds, are also frequently used for yellow hues.
Red pigments can also come from a broad array of sources. Naturally occurring minerals like cinnabar and hematite, as well as organic sources such as cochineal bugs, have been used historically. In modern times, synthetic red pigments are often derived from azo compounds, naphthol, or quinacridone.
The black pigment in PMU has various origins. Natural sources such as bone char and vine char have been historically used. In the contemporary PMU industry, synthetic sources like aniline black, carbon black, or iron oxide are common. These are created through various chemical processes, involving the combustion of hydrocarbons or the oxidation of iron.
Among these colors, the black pigment has been the subject of significant discussion due to its varied use in procedures like eyeliner application. This reveals a vital truth: "Not all black pigments are the same". The source, composition, and production process of the black pigment can significantly affect its characteristics and safety profile.
Particle Size: A Crucial Factor in PMU Pigment Selection
Beyond their basic color composition and source material, an important characteristic of pigments that should not be overlooked is their particle size. Different pigments used in the PMU industry can vary significantly in this aspect, which can affect the procedure and outcomes significantly.
Pigment particle size can vary based on a number of factors. These include the production method, the raw materials used, and any processing or milling the pigment undergoes. For instance, pigments produced by grinding raw materials may have larger particles than those synthesized chemically. Pigments can also be milled or processed after production to achieve the desired particle size. The specific pigment's chemical and physical properties can also affect its particle size.
When it comes to practical implications, there's no definitive answer to whether large or small pigment particles are better. However, it is generally agreed upon that larger pigment particles require more skill and precision to implant into the skin correctly. This is because larger particles can be more challenging to control and distribute evenly during the procedure.
On the other hand, smaller pigment particles tend to migrate deeper into the skin layers over time. This can influence the longevity of the PMU and potentially impact the color and appearance of the result. Understanding this, it becomes clear that pigment particle size plays a critical role in determining the outcome and durability of PMU procedures.
Particle Size and Color Changes: Why Do Smaller Particles Turn Blue?
One of the fascinating aspects of pigmentation in PMU is the way in which pigment colors can shift during the healing process. Specifically, it's been noted that carbon black pigment, a commonly used pigment in PMU, can shift towards a blue hue when composed of smaller particles, while larger particles tend to maintain a more brownish color.
The underlying reason for this relates to the way light interacts with particles of different sizes, and how our eyes perceive color.
To understand why we see the color blue, we need to look at the principles of light reflection and absorption. Light is a form of electromagnetic radiation that is perceived as having different colors depending on its wavelength. The color blue corresponds to light with a shorter wavelength (around 475 nanometers).
When light hits an object, the object absorbs some wavelengths of light and reflects others. The color that we perceive is determined by the wavelengths of light that are reflected. So, when we see something as blue, it's because the object is absorbing all other colors (wavelengths of light) but reflecting the blue (shorter) wavelengths.
When it comes to pigment particles, their size influences the wavelengths of light they reflect and absorb. Smaller pigment particles have a surface area to volume ratio that allows them to scatter and reflect shorter wavelengths of light, such as blue, more efficiently. This is similar to why the sky appears blue - the molecules in the Earth's atmosphere are small enough to scatter short-wavelength light, such as blue and violet light, to a far greater degree than long-wavelength light such as red, orange, and yellow.
On the other hand, larger pigment particles reflect and absorb light differently, which can make them appear more brownish. The larger particles are less efficient at scattering short-wavelength light, so they reflect a broader range of wavelengths that result in the perception of a more 'brown' color.
This phenomenon highlights the complex interaction between light, color, and perception, and underscores the importance of understanding the physical and optical properties of pigments used in PMU.