Observations on removing pigment from the skin
Just some observations…
Removal specialists should understand: 'migration' - we'll define it, and explore its mechanisms and causes; 'needle depth' - we'll identify its correlation with the appearance of lymph fluid and blood on the skin's surface; and finally, 'removal techniques' - we'll dissect the three primary needle movement strategies used to administer removal gel.
“ The path to success in both creating and removing Powder Brows is paved with a deep understanding of skin anatomy, its response to trauma, and the practical nuances of various procedures. Remember, knowledge is power - the more you know, the better you’ll perform.”
Understanding Pigment Migration in Skin: A Deep Dive into the Complex Layers of the Skin
In order to fully grasp the concept of pigment migration in semi-permanent makeup procedures, it's vital to have an understanding of the skin's layers: the epidermis, dermis, and hypodermis.
The epidermis, the skin's outermost layer, is responsible for providing a barrier against environmental factors and retaining necessary moisture.
Beneath the epidermis lies the dermis, a complex layer of collagen and elastin fibers. It's within this layer that you'll find hair follicles, sweat glands, and nerve endings.
The deepest layer, the hypodermis, is primarily composed of adipose tissue (fat) and provides thermal insulation, energy storage, and protection of vital organs.
The Science Behind Pigment Migration
Pigment migration refers to the process where pigment, instead of staying within the dermis, where it's intended to be, moves deeper into the hypodermis layer. This typically happens when the needle penetrates too deeply into the skin during the PMU procedure. Once in the hypodermis, the pigment can spread out in an undesired pattern, leading to blurred, smudged, or discolored results.
Pigment migration is a complex process that involves a few key steps. It often begins when the needle used for semi-permanent makeup penetrates too deeply, reaching the hypodermis. Once here, the pigment can be absorbed by the fat cells, leading to it spreading out and becoming less defined.
Skin Layer Renewal: A Constant Cycle of Regeneration
Each of the skin layers undergoes constant renewal. The epidermis renews itself approximately every 27-30 days through a process called desquamation. New cells are constantly produced in the lower levels of the epidermis, slowly moving upward and eventually flaking off.
The dermis doesn't renew itself at the same rapid pace as the epidermis. Instead, it relies on a slower process, where collagen and elastin are broken down and new proteins are synthesized. This cycle can take several months.
The hypodermis doesn't have a traditional renewal process like the other layers. Instead, its fat cells expand and contract based on factors such as weight gain, weight loss, and aging.
The Impact of Pigment Migration on PMU Removal
Pigment migration poses a significant challenge when it comes to removing bad PMU. The deep location of the pigment in the hypodermis hampers the natural removal process. The fatty tissue present in the hypodermis absorbs pigment molecules, thus delaying the natural elimination process. It may take as long as 7-8 years, or in some cases even longer, for the body to naturally remove these deeply located pigments.
Needle Depth and Skin Response in PMU Procedures: A Dermatological Perspective
When practicing Powder Brows or undertaking pigment removal, the depth of the needle in the skin layers can affect the body's response. Below, we'll outline what happens at different skin depths.
Epidermis Interaction: No Visible Fluid
When the needle only enters the epidermis, there's typically no liquid released. This is due to the nature of the epidermis itself. The outermost layer of our skin, the epidermis, is primarily composed of dead cells and keratin, a type of protein. It lacks blood vessels and, in healthy skin, also lacks lymph fluid, making it typically dry unless breached.
Upper Dermis Interaction: Clear Lymph Fluid Emerges
A slightly deeper needle penetration into the upper layer of the dermis may lead to the emergence of clear lymph fluid. This layer of the skin contains lymph vessels that carry lymph, a clear fluid containing white blood cells. As the needle penetrates, it can cause these vessels to release some of this lymph, resulting in almost transparent liquid dots. The procedure is usually relatively painless due to fewer nerve endings in this layer.
Middle Dermis Interaction: Pinkish Lymph Fluid With Orange Undertones
If the needle enters the middle dermis, larger tears of pinkish lymph fluid that often have an orange undertone may appear. The dermis houses blood vessels, and a deeper needle penetration could disrupt these structures, causing a bit of bleeding that mixes with the lymph fluid to give it a pinkish color. The orange undertone may be due to a combination of the pigmentation color and the natural skin color.
Lower Dermis Interaction: Bright Reddish Liquid (Blood Mixed)
When the needle hits the bottom dermis, tears of bright reddish liquid (mixed with blood) are often visible. This is because the lower dermis is richly supplied with blood vessels, and deeper needle penetration can cause these vessels to bleed. The bright red color is due to the presence of oxygenated blood.
Understanding these dermatological reactions can provide valuable insights during the PMU process or pigment removal, aiding in determining the needle's depth in the skin layers.
Techniques and Strategies for Pigment Removal in PMU Procedures
When addressing 'bad pigment' during removal procedures, there are three main handpiece movement strategies to consider, each with unique effects on the skin.
Dotting Technique: Gentle Approach
The first is the dotting technique, where the handpiece is kept at 90 degrees and a small pattern of dots is made to apply the removal gel. This approach minimally traumatizes the skin and serves as a good gauge of how many removal passes can be performed. The skin's reaction can vary due to a variety of factors, including skin type, overall health, and individual tolerance to pain. For instance, according to the Fitzpatrick scale, darker skin types have more melanin, which may increase the likelihood of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, hence careful consideration should be given during the removal process.
Spiral Movement: Aiming for Larger Coverage
The second strategy is a spiral movement to administer the removal gel, a technique that covers larger skin areas and is especially effective when the pigment isn't too deep. It also initiates osmosis, a process where water molecules move from a region of lower concentration (the removal gel) to a higher concentration (the pigment), thus facilitating pigment removal. This biological process is fundamental to many bodily functions, including skincare treatments.
Snake Technique: For Resilient Skin Types
The third technique, sometimes referred to as the 'snake', involves moving the handpiece up and down the brow area, with the needle at a 45-60 degree angle. This causes more trauma to the skin but also allows for more removal gel application. It should only be used on resilient skin types. At a 45-60 degree angle, the needle covers a larger area of the skin and penetrates deeper, hence increasing the chances of damaging more skin cells and causing inflammation. This makes it more traumatic compared to a 90-degree insertion, where the needle only punctures a small, localized area of the skin.