Some practical thoughts on chemical removal of Powder Brows


Two different realms…

The journey toward mastery in Powder Brows creation is filled with artistry, precision, and a focus on the client's comfort. However, when it comes to pigment removal using removal gels, the path diverges. This is a different realm altogether that requires a new set of skills and mindset. As artists, we must approach it distinctively, understanding that the rules that govern brow creation may not serve us best in the process of removal.

 
In the artistry of Powder Brows, we may often ask our clients about their comfort. But when it comes to removal, it is the artist who needs to be comfortable even more than during the Powder Brows creation process. This shift in perspective, from prioritizing the comfort of the client to focusing on the comfort of the artist to a larger extent, is what defines the successful execution of the removal process.
— powderbrows.com
 

The Optimal Approach: Combining Laser and Chemical Methods

When it comes to effectively removing Powder Brows, no singular method reigns supreme. Both laser treatments and chemical removal gels offer distinct advantages. Yet, the key to achieving the best results often lies in the combination of these two methods, not their separate application.

Laser removal operates through a process called selective photothermolysis. This process works by targeting the tattoo pigment with highly concentrated light beams. The pigments absorb the light energy, which consequently breaks them down into tiny fragments. Over time, these fragments are gradually cleared away by the body's immune system, lightening the tattoo.

Chemical removal gels, on the other hand, work on a different principle. These gels contain specific chemicals that react with the tattoo pigments, breaking them down or altering their structure. This often results in the pigments becoming less visible or being easier to remove.

By combining these methods, we harness the strengths of both processes, providing a comprehensive and effective approach to Powder Brows removal.

The Intricate Mechanism Behind Chemical Removal

A common misconception, even among experienced artists, concerns the operational principle of chemical removers. Many believe that these removers work by drawing the unwanted pigment up to the surface of the skin, where it can then be physically removed. In reality, the process is much more complex and the visible surfacing of pigment during the procedure is only a secondary effect.

The primary function of chemical removers is to create a measured and controlled level of damage or trauma to the skin. This trauma triggers a physiological response from the body, initiating a healing process. As part of this healing process, the body's immune system works to remove foreign objects from the site of trauma, which in this case includes the unwanted tattoo pigment.

From a dermatological perspective, the process can be viewed as an immune response. When the skin is damaged, whether by a tattoo needle or a removal agent, the body initiates an inflammatory response. White blood cells, particularly macrophages, are mobilized to the site of damage. These cells engulf and digest foreign substances, including tattoo pigment particles, as part of a process called phagocytosis. Once engulfed, these particles are transported away from the skin and towards the lymph nodes, where they are ultimately processed and disposed of.

This is the true essence of chemical remover action – not merely bringing pigment to the skin's surface, but engaging the body's own healing mechanisms to systematically eliminate unwanted pigment from the skin.

The Importance of Keeping the Working Area Clean

One of the most overlooked aspects of the removal procedure is the thoroughness of cleaning the working area. In many cases, artists do not sufficiently cleanse the client's skin, which can impact the effectiveness of the removal process. It's crucial that all traces of makeup be completely eliminated from the client's skin before beginning the procedure.

Furthermore, while implementing the remover gel with the PMU machine, it's important to regularly wipe the area. This ensures the artist has a clear view of the skin at all times. A common misstep is neglecting this continuous cleaning, which can obscure the artist's view and compromise the precision and effectiveness of the removal procedure. Regular cleansing of the working area helps maintain visibility, supports accurate application, and maximizes the results of the removal process.

Adjusting the Hand-Piece Angle for Effective Removal

For artists experienced in performing the Powder Brows procedure, holding the handpiece at a 90-degree angle during the pigmentation process becomes second nature. However, when it comes to the removal procedure, it's crucial to adjust this ingrained technique. It is actually far more effective to hold the handpiece, and consequently, the needle, at a 45-degree angle. This angle adjustment facilitates a greater quantity of remover gel to reach the dermis, the skin layer where the pigment resides.

Furthermore, when addressing the pigmented area of the brow intended for removal, the needle direction plays a significant role in the outcome. It is essential that the needle is never directed outwards from the edges of this area but always directed inwards. This adjustment enhances the effectiveness of the removal process and promotes a more satisfactory result for the client.

Initiating Controlled Skin Trauma for Effective Removal

A critical mindset shift is required for makeup artists accustomed to creating Powder Brows with minimal skin damage while prioritizing beauty. The chemical removal process is substantially different; it's a deliberate intervention designed to initiate controlled damage and trauma to facilitate pigment removal.

The artist's role during this procedure is to make circular movements with the needle, creating calculated damage in the dermis, the second layer of skin, while preserving the epidermis, the outermost layer, as much as possible. This approach essentially incites internal skin damage, thus triggering the body's healing and removal mechanisms.

To appreciate the significance of this, it's crucial to understand the basic structure of the skin. The skin is comprised of three primary layers: the epidermis (outer layer), the dermis (middle layer), and the hypodermis (inner layer). The dermis houses blood vessels, hair follicles, and sweat glands, and is where the tattoo pigment resides. By targeting the dermis during the removal process, we can directly address the location of the unwanted pigment, promoting an effective removal process.