How to do Powder Brows on darker skin
It is possible!
Navigating the intricacies of pigmenting darker skin tones requires a unique approach, and the Fitzpatrick scale's highest categories - types 5 and 6 - undoubtedly pose distinctive challenges. Despite this, professional artists have the tools to create outstanding results with the Powder Brows technique, given they understand and respect the anatomy and distinctive characteristics of these skin types. This article shares practical advice on how to optimize your Powder Brows procedures for Fitzpatrick types 5 and 6, paving the way for enhanced client satisfaction.
“The art of creating Powder Brows transcends the boundaries of skin types. While Fitzpatrick types 5 and 6 may require a unique approach, they are by no means off-limits. It’s about adapting and refining techniques, not limiting options. With the right skills and understanding, every shade on the Fitzpatrick scale is a canvas for breathtaking Powder Brows.”
1. Understanding the Fitzpatrick Skin Type Scale
The Fitzpatrick Skin Type Scale is a classification system first developed by Harvard Medical School dermatologist Thomas Fitzpatrick in 1975. It gauges how different skin types respond to UV light and, in this context, how they interact with various brow treatments. The scale ranges from Type I (very fair skin, prone to burning and never tanning) to Type VI (very dark skin, never burns, and always tans).
People falling in categories V and VI typically have very dark to black skin, brown to black eyes, and black hair. They tan easily and very rarely get sunburns. Their origins might be, for example, of African, Middle Eastern, Indian, or Aboriginal Australian descent. Their skin is characterized by high melanin content which can affect how pigments appear and heal.
For these individuals, solely relying on microblading for eyebrow enhancements might not yield the best results. This is due to their skin's tendency to overproduce melanin which may lead to hyperpigmentation, and the skin's texture might also result in less crisp lines. Combining microblading with heavy shading or opting for Powder Brows are often better options. However, there are certain nuances that must be taken into account when performing these procedures on type V and VI skin.
2. Setting Realistic Expectations: Understanding the Client's Skin
Before embarking on the Powder Brows journey with a client having a Fitzpatrick skin type V or VI, it's essential to have an open conversation about expectations. As a professional, it's your role to ensure that your client has realistic goals based on their individual skin type and condition.
Begin by carefully observing your client's skin, focusing specifically on the area around the brows. Encourage the client to provide honest information about their skin’s oiliness throughout the day. For instance, if their skin tends to get moist by noon or even earlier, the process might pose more challenges.
Do not forget to evaluate the texture of the skin in different parts of the brow - the inner part, middle section, and tail. Remember, the inner part tends to be the oiliest and hence, the hardest to work on. Usually, the oiliness level declines towards the tail. Thus, assessing these factors can guide you in formulating the most suitable approach for each client.
3. Perfecting Pigment Selection: Harmonizing Dark and Light
Selecting the right pigment for clients with a Fitzpatrick skin type V or VI requires a careful balance between dark and light shades. While the first instinct may be to reach for the darkest pigment containing high amounts of carbon, this approach may not always yield the best results.
Interestingly, an effective technique involves combining the darkest pigment with the lightest warm pigment, typically one with yellowish undertones. This combination works well because the yellowish pigment contains titanium dioxide, a component known to enhance the visibility of the brow through the skin.
Just like all pigments interact with skin melanin, this unique mix of darkest and lightest tones does as well, resulting in the most natural and flattering results. If the pigments you're using are scaled according to the Fitzpatrick scale, this would mean mixing pigment 1 with pigment 6. This balanced approach can create an aesthetically pleasing look that complements the client's complexion.
4. Modifying Techniques for Darker Skin Tones: Angle, Strokes, and Anesthetic
The Powder Brows procedure tends to require more time when executed on darker skin tones (Fitzpatrick skin type V or VI). A few key adjustments in your technique can make all the difference in achieving the desired result.
Firstly, adjust your strokes. Shorter strokes tend to be more effective in pigment delivery. Secondly, reconsider your angle. While the standard rule advocates for holding the handpiece at a 90-degree angle, this guideline can be slightly modified. For example, when working on the midsection of the brow (typically the easiest part to tattoo on darker skin), it may be helpful to tilt your handpiece to a 60-degree angle, particularly on the lower part of the brow. Be careful not to go as extreme as 45 degrees, as it could be too aggressive for the skin.
Lastly, be mindful of the use of anesthetic. Overusing numbing creams may inhibit effective pigment implementation. Many professionals abide by the rule of allowing the brows to rest during phases 3 and 4, as it can be as effective as applying an anesthetic, without impacting pigment implantation negatively.
5. Post-Procedure Care and Photographing Tips for Darker Skin Tones
The aftercare process for Powder Brows on darker skin tones may involve more retouching than other skin types, and it's essential to inform your client of this upfront. Darker skin tones often require additional sessions to achieve the desired look due to the unique ways the skin absorbs and retains pigment.
After the procedure, if you're aiming to take photographs of your work, remember that the last brow you worked on may appear slightly lighter. To present a uniform look in your photographs, apply anesthetic to the brow you worked on first to balance out the appearance.
When preparing for photos, make sure to clean up the surrounding area of the brow by gently removing any unnecessary hair outside the lower and upper arches using a razor tool. Adding light makeup, such as a touch of eyelash enhancement and a mattifying product for the skin, can further improve the overall aesthetic of your after-photos. Always remember, your photographs represent your work, so it's worth taking the time to make them look as professional as possible.