Introduction to Powder Brows pigments
Facts matter
Pigments used in Powder Brows treatments have generated numerous questions, largely due to the complexity of the chemistry involved. Many people entering the field of Powder Brows may not have an extensive background in this area. Furthermore, it's quite common for individuals to be vulnerable to misinformation when they are not well-versed in a subject. This reality has been exploited by some producers and resellers who induce fear to promote their products. We firmly believe that understanding pigments should be grounded in factual information. The following insights should be beneficial if you're an aspiring Powder Brows artist seeking factual data on the industry's pigments.
“The more you know about pigments and their components the less you are influenced by hype and interpretations. Pigmentology is the field where scientific facts and chemistry should reign superior to pseudo-science and marketing statements.”
Fundamentals of Pigments
Colors used in Powder Brows and Permanent Makeup (PMU) always consist of two main components: the pigment itself and a liquid carrier that facilitates the pigment's delivery into the skin. The goal in Powder Brows is to deposit enough pigment molecules into the Basal membrane. It's safe to say that without a carrier liquid, this process would be impossible. The pigment must be resilient enough that the body doesn't eliminate it too quickly.
Liquid Carriers
Liquid carriers serve many purposes beyond just facilitating the delivery of pigment into the skin. They help maintain the consistency of the pigment, provide moisture, and often contain solvents needed for pigment production. Let's delve deeper into what you might find in a typical liquid carrier:
Witch-hazel (Hamamelis virginiana) - Extracted from the leaves and fruit of the Witch-hazel plant, it is a mild cooling agent. It is a common, completely harmless component of many creams and cooling gels. Although it's a natural ingredient, ingestion is not recommended.
Purified Water - Pigments also contain water (H2O). This is not ordinary tap water but purified water, free from any contaminants. The purification process includes osmosis, filtration, and distillation.
Alcohols - There are numerous types of alcohols with a wide range of properties. The specific type and its effects must be understood in the context of its specific chemical composition. Some commonly used alcohols in pigments include:
Glycerine (C3H8O3) - A natural, odorless, colorless liquid substance used in the food industry as a sweetener. In pigments, Glycerine maintains moisture.
Propylene Glycol (C3H8O2) - It is often misunderstood because of its use in antifreeze for car engines. It can also be a byproduct of fermentation. Despite its controversial reputation, in the context of pigments, Propylene Glycol is used to maintain moisture and is considered safe.
Isopropyl Alcohol (C3H8O) - Also known as Isopropanol, this simple antiseptic is often used by artists. It also acts as a solvent in the process of mixing the pigment substances together.
Propylene Glycol (C2nH4n+2On+1) - This chemical substance is used to retain the moisture and liquidity of the pigment. It is safe in the context of pigments despite some rare allergic reactions.
Rosin (C15H20O6) - Derived from resin extracted from palm trees, Rosin is used to thicken and solidify various products. In pigments, it provides a more solid and thicker consistency.
Isopropyl Palmitate (C19H38O2) - Derived from palm and coconut oils, Isopropyl Palmitate is used to improve the consistency and smoothness of pigments.
In conclusion, understanding the chemistry behind the pigments used in Powder Brows is critical for both professionals and clients alike. Knowledge equips us to make informed decisions and combat misinformation. Please remember that the exact composition can vary, so always verify the ingredients and their quantities before making assumptions based on label information.
Colors in the pigments
Let's delve into the pigment colors used in Powder Brows. Essentially, three different colors are typically required for these pigments: Black, Red, and Yellow. In addition, some white color is often used, which will also be explained later. Let's start with black.
Black - There are three common methods to produce black pigment for Powder Brows or semi-permanent makeup, each with its own benefits and drawbacks.
Longwood (C16H14O6 or C16H12O6), also known as Campeachy wood, provides a natural method of deriving black pigment. The wood can be boiled and the resulting chemical substances extracted. Despite its natural origins, it's important not to automatically assume that it's entirely safe. Safety often depends on the specific manufacturer, as the compound itself would dissolve quickly in water. To ensure stability, additional insoluble carriers like Aluminium Hydroxide or Barium Sulfate must be used, which may carry their own safety concerns. While the black pigment derived from Longwood is organic (containing carbon) and natural, some artists report difficulties with pigment insertion and stability due to its lightness.
Iron Oxide - CI 77499- (Fe3O4) is an inorganic iron oxide that occurs naturally as a mineral. Despite its natural occurrence, modern production techniques do not involve extracting Fe3O4 from iron ore due to the risk of introducing heavy metals into the final product. Instead, the substance is synthesized in laboratories for better control over purity. This process results in Black color by the color index 77499 (CI 77499), which is deemed safe and generally accepted by most cosmetology experts. The magnetic properties of Fe3O4 have raised some concerns but are generally considered harmless in the quantities used in Powder Brows.
Carbon - CI 77266- (C) is used in many modern pigments for their black color. Over 97% pure carbon is essentially the same substance found in ash or soot. However, in the pigment industry, it is also used in nano-form. This allows the carbon particles to be very small, giving a variety of advantages. Carbon stays in the skin longer compared to Fe3O4 or Longwood-based blacks, despite having a slightly higher hazard score.
The options for Red and Yellow pigments are relatively straightforward, with iron oxide being a common choice.
Red: Iron Oxide - CI 77491 - (Fe2O3) is considered safe for use in various cosmetic products. Naturally, it is simply rust. It is stable and, in practice, there have never been issues with preserving molecules of this pigment in the skin.
Yellow: Iron Oxide - CI 77492 - (Fe2O3) also produces a yellow color. The difference between red and yellow is in the hydration phases: the α hydration phase produces red, and the β hydration phase produces yellow. This yellow color is also stable on the skin.
Historically, there were other ways to achieve red or yellow colors, but these methods are not used as widely anymore, mainly due to restrictions by the European Union and the FDA.
Cinnabar (HgS) and Cadmium (CdSO4) could produce bright red and yellow colors respectively, but their high levels of toxic heavy metals make them unsuitable for modern use.
Azo dyes (R−N=N−R′) were also used for red (and sometimes yellow) colors, but they are widely restricted due to their carcinogenic properties.
Curcuma Longa (C21H20O6), a natural yellow powder extracted from the Turmeric plant, has been used in pigments, but its persistence in the skin has generally been weak.
Some producers have even attempted to use berries for red color, but these pigments have generally been temporary and unstable. However, stable, natural red colors may be achieved by certain producers.
Overall, an understanding of the pigments used in Powder Brows is crucial to ensure safety and quality results. As with any cosmetic product, it's important to verify the ingredients and their safety before use.
Heavy metals
This discussion wouldn't be comprehensive without addressing the topic of heavy metals in relation to Powder Brows pigments. Historically, the usage of heavy metals in pigments was prevalent, but in the modern era, this has significantly changed. Toxic heavy metals are far less common in pigments today than they were years ago.
Determining which metals are considered "heavy" can be challenging, with almost a hundred different definitions across various fields such as chemistry, physics, metallurgy, and more. Commonly, lead and mercury are universally classified as heavy metals.
To add clarity and based on the need to meet regional regulations, let's use the comprehensive list of heavy metals provided by the European Union (EU) directives, known to be stricter than the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA). According to the EU ResAP (2008)1, heavy metals that pigments need to be tested against include Arsenic (As), Nickel (Ni), Barium (Ba), Lead (Pb), Cadmium (Cd), Selenium (Se), Cobalt (Co), Antimony (Sb), Chromium (Cr), Tin (Sn), Copper (Cu), Zinc (Zn), and Mercury (Hg).
However, it's important to note that heavy metals testing is just one aspect of many tests carried out to sell pigments within EU states. The use of heavy metals, or their sulfides or oxides, in pigments intended for Powder Brows would prevent these products from being sold and marketed. The prevailing commercial interest is to create safe pigments without heavy metals, as this aligns with regulatory requirements and consumer safety.
Some pigment labels might mention "May contain traces of nickel", which might seem alarming at first. However, this statement does not suggest that heavy metals are present in the pigment. It simply acknowledges that pigment production occurs in factories where other products containing nickel are also produced. Any residual nickel particles would be insignificant and well below the safety norms.
Legal Aspects
Navigating the legal terrain regarding pigments and heavy metals is crucial. Producers typically operate under the principle that everything not explicitly illegal is legal. While the U.S. FDA does regulate substances in Powder Brows pigments, most producers acknowledge that meeting FDA standards isn't overly challenging. In contrast, the European Union imposes stricter regulations, notably through EU ResAP (2008)1 and subsequent updates.
Although the EU's list of substances to avoid due to cancer risk, mutagenic properties, and other health concerns might seem intimidating, most of these substances aren't economically or practically viable in pigment production. Individual EU member states can establish stricter regulations, though this isn't common, except for certain cases such as Sweden's restrictions on formaldehyde and formaldehyde-releasing preservatives.
Here is also a list of concrete laws and regulations that one has to keep in mind when it comes to choosing and using pigmentation pigments for the Powder Bros procedure.
United States
Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act (FD&C Act): This law gives the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) the authority to regulate color additives in food, drugs, and cosmetics, including pigments for permanent makeup.
Color Additive Amendments of 1960: These amendments to the FD&C Act require pre-market approval for all color additives to ensure they are safe for their intended uses.
21 CFR Part 74 and 21 CFR Part 73: These sections of the Code of Federal Regulations provide specific information on the approved uses, specifications, and restrictions for color additives, including pigments.
Note that in the U.S., each state may have additional regulations, particularly regarding the application of permanent makeup, such as tattooing and microblading, that can affect pigmentation pigments.
European Union:
EU Cosmetics Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009: This is the main regulatory framework for cosmetic products in the EU. It provides a list of banned and restricted substances and requires safety assessments for all products.
EU Resolution ResAP (2008)1: This resolution by the Council of Europe outlines specific requirements for tattooing and permanent makeup, including a list of substances that cannot be used in tattooing products.
REACH Regulation (EC) No 1907/2006: REACH (Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and Restriction of Chemicals) regulation affects the chemicals used in pigments and requires safety data for all substances manufactured or imported into the EU in large quantities.
Asia:
China's Hygienic Standards for Cosmetics (2007): This legislation provides a list of banned and restricted substances in cosmetics, including pigments. It also establishes maximum allowable concentrations for heavy metals in cosmetic pigments.
Japan's Standards for Cosmetics: This includes a list of substances that cannot be used in cosmetics and a positive list of approved color additives for use in cosmetics.
ASEAN Cosmetic Directive: This is the regulation for the Association of Southeast Asian Nations (ASEAN) and is largely based on the EU Cosmetics Regulation.
Other Countries:
Canada's Cosmetic Regulations (C.R.C., c. 869): Similar to the EU and the U.S., Canada has a list of prohibited and restricted substances for use in cosmetics.
Australia's National Industrial Chemicals Notification and Assessment Scheme (NICNAS): This scheme is responsible for the regulation of industrial chemicals, including color additives used in cosmetics.
These regulations focus on ensuring safety, prohibiting harmful substances, and restricting the use of certain substances in cosmetic products, including permanent makeup pigments. Keep in mind that regulations can vary greatly between countries, and this list may not be exhaustive or up-to-date. Always check with local regulations or regulatory bodies for the most accurate information.
Marketing Aspects
The Powder Brows pigment industry is an arena where considerable resources are dedicated to sales and marketing. Emotionally charged keywords like "cancer", "animal testing", "heavy metals", "natural", and "vegan" can significantly influence customer behavior. However, some marketing strategies used in selling pigments can be questionable. Here are two prominent examples:
Presenting basic compliance as an achievement: Some manufacturers advertise their compliance with basic regulatory requirements (such as meeting EU ResAP (2008)1 standard or keeping heavy metals within EU-set limits) as a significant achievement. This information, while important, should be a baseline expectation for any pigment producer.
Making pseudoscience out of creating pigments: Another marketing strategy is to make pigment production appear more scientific than it is, implying extensive research and development. However, if such groundbreaking discoveries were made, they would typically be patented to protect proprietary information. If a product isn't patented, it's essentially public domain information. Using scientific jargon doesn't necessarily mean there was a significant scientific investment in the product's development.
Presenting misleading information (or lying): Marketers should avoid making claims that can't be supported by facts or that presume an unrealistic knowledge about the market or product performance.
Moreover, the growing trend of emphasizing the vegan aspect of pigments can be misleading. While it's true that the final product may not contain animal-derived substances or have been tested on animals, it's possible that animal testing occurred during the development of the components. This is a nuanced aspect of the modern market economy - all that is not explicitly illegal in marketing is technically legal.
Conclusion
There are several high-quality pigments available that can enable artists to achieve excellent Powder Brows results.
Both natural and synthesized pigments can offer top quality.
Heavy metals should not be included in pigments.
Marketers should avoid using fear-based tactics to sell their products.
No one should feel guilty or fearful.
Remember, the choice of pigment is only as good as the skill of the artist using it. The most critical factors for success in Powder Brows are hard work, consistent practice, and a commitment to continuous improvement. No amount of high-quality pigment can compensate for a lack of skill or dedication.