Mapping Powder Brows using the Golden Ratio tool
Mapping and shaping
The precision mapping of eyebrows is a multifaceted practice that significantly contributes to the success of permanent cosmetic treatments like Powder Brows. There are numerous methods employed by professionals for delineating the brow shape and placement, with the Golden Ratio (Phi) division being one of the widely recognized systems. This particular methodology finds applications in an array of semi-permanent brow treatments, ranging from microblading to Powder Brows.
“Accurate eyebrow mapping is a key determinant of the final quality output in the Powder Brows procedure. If one master’s pigment implantation but falls short in mapping skills, the damage done to the client is even greater.”
This article aims to provide a comprehensive understanding of the Golden Ratio application, augmented with illustrative diagrams at each step. It is important to note that contemporary professionals often amalgamate different strategies, some of which are elucidated in the online training at Powderbrows.com.
1. Locating the center of the face
The first step to initiating the mapping procedure is the localization of the face's center. It is noteworthy that measurements in Powder Brows do not depend on the nostrils but are instead based purely on skull structure. We initiate by pinching the skin between the brows, drawing a line representing the face's center, and confirming it with a straight tool on the nose.
2. Measure the distance between the scleras
The next step involves measuring the distance between the scleras (the white part of the eye). For this, we employ the larger 'V'-shaped part of the Golden Ratio Tool. At this stage, we only measure the width and do not draw any lines.
3. Drawing beginning lines (1,4)
Following this, we draw the beginning lines of the brows (1,4). We attach an extra handle on the center line, holding the tool horizontally straight, and draw the starting lines. We verify that the distances from the center line are equal before erasing the center line.
4. Locating the end-lines (3)
The end-lines (3) are located by placing both index fingers on the client's temples and applying mild pressure. We locate the small dimples everyone has and mark the brow's end at the beginning of these dimples. Ensuring the width of both brows is the same is crucial at this point.
5. The highest point determination
Determining the highest point (2) of the brow involves placing the Golden Ratio Tool on top of the brow so that the ends touch the beginning line and end line. We ensure that the larger part of the tool is on the inside of the brow and then mark the highest point to the upper arch.
6. Identifying the raising checkpoint
To identify the rising checkpoint (5), we flip the tool so that the smaller part is on the inside of the brow. Marking the raising checkpoints of both brows on the lower arch and ensuring that the widths are the same is the next step. However, in current practices, many artists are eliminating this step as the lower arch is usually drawn in a straighter fashion.
7. Determining the heighest point of the lower arch
Finally, we determine the highest point of the lower arch. This is done by pinching the Golden Ratio Tool together, placing one handle at the highest point of the brow (2), and another handle at the endpoint (3) so that the smaller part of the tool is on the inside of the brow. We then mark point 6 to the lower arch.