Guide to PMU needle cartridge markings
"10 03 RL ST" - What does it mean?
Navigating the intricacies of tattooing needle specifications is a vital aspect of mastering permanent makeup procedures, such as Powder Brows. Being able to decipher the markings on needle cartridge packages is a sign of a skilled PMU artist. Consider, for instance, the markings "10 03 RL ST" on a needle cartridge package; there's a depth of information contained in these simple characters, which we'll unravel in the ensuing discussion.
“Mastering the language of needle specifications isn’t just about professionalism; it’s about precision. The right needle, selected for the specific task and the client’s skin type, is one of the key factors in delivering exceptional Powder Brows results.”
Selecting the right needle cartridge for a Powder Brows procedure is not about finding the 'best' one, but rather the one most suited to the task at hand, considering the specific skin type and brow area. In fact, it's not unusual for an artist to employ a variety of needle cartridges in crafting a single brow to achieve the most remarkable results.
Needle diameter
The first number ("10" in our example) refers to the diameter. This shows the diameter of a single needle inside the cartridge. In other words, the diameter of a needle impacts the ink flow and the fineness of the lines or dots it can create. It's denoted by the first number on the needle cartridge label.
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Sometimes the first number of this combination is displayed in millimeters. In that case, the marking "10 05 RL ST" just reads as follows: "0,30MM 05 RL ST". Here are some common examples so you would get a better idea.
6 or 0.18mm-0.20mm. These are ultra-fine needles used for creating very precise, thin lines. They're ideal for techniques that mimic natural hair strokes, such as in nano strokes (hair stroke style Powder Brows) or delicate eyeliner procedures.
8 or 0.25mm. These needles are still thin but offer slightly more substantial lines than a 6-diameter needle. They can be used for hair strokes, as well as shading and color fill techniques.
10 or 0.30mm. This diameter offers a balance of precision and color delivery. It's suitable for a wide range of techniques, from outlining to shading and color filling.
12 or 0.35mm. This is the standard diameter used for body tattooing and is less common in PMU. It can deliver bold lines and solid color filling, suitable for more dramatic makeup effects.
Number of needles
It just shows how many needles there are in total inside the cartridge. Usually always marked so that "0" and the number (if there are less than 10 needles in the cartridge). It just defines how many little holes will be made into the skin with a single hit as the machine rotary moves the needles in and out of the skin. Common amounts are, for example, 1, 3, 5, 7, 9 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 18. Depending on the concrete producer there can be any number of needles between 1 and 20-25. In other words, this number is just a reference to the number of needles in a cartridge that influences the width of the stroke and the amount of pigment delivered to the skin. The second number in the cartridge marking represents this.
Single Needle (01): Single needles offer the highest precision and are used for creating fine hair strokes or detailed lines.
Three Needles (03): This configuration is typically arranged in a round formation (more on this later) and can be used for fine shading or outlining.
Five to Eight Needles (05-08). These cartridges are great for shading techniques, color filling, or creating thicker lines.
Higher counts (10 and above). Larger needle groupings deliver the most pigment and are used for broader coverage, such as in Ombré Powder Brows or full lip color procedures.
Needle formation
How the needles are formed. In our example, the letters "RL" stand for "Round liner." This combination of letters refers to the shape of how the needles are formed. Common combinations are for example "RL" and "RS". Those indicate respectively the terms "Round Liner" and "Round Shader". In addition to that, there are tens of similar formation terms indicating how needles are shaped inside the cartridge head. For example, well-known formations are also: F = Flat, MI = Magnum, RM = Curved Magnum, etc.
Magnum needles are only used when covering larger areas of skin (i.e. when tattooing). Choosing a larger needle for covering a larger area is smart because then you cause as little damage to the skin as possible (compared to trying to fill in the same area with just one small needle).
Liners vs Shaders. When it comes to cartridges with the same markings and the only difference being the "RL" or "RS" marking, then you have to know what the difference is. When it comes to RL then the needles are pointed together into one single point, making the linework even crisper and also leaving very little room for error. Many artists have said, they use those for creating finer lines. Whereas, "RS" means that the needles are pointed 90 degrees down and straightforwardly hit the skin. That way the lines are not that super-crisp and thin are a bit shaded and also there is a bit more room for error.
One should also know that the arrangement of the needles significantly affects the procedure's outcome, thus it is important to understand all common options. Here are explanations on the letters regarding needle formation you may find on the cartridge label.
RL (Round Liner). In this formation, needles are tightly packed in a circular pattern. As discussed, it is used for creating solid lines or outlines in procedures like eyeliner or lip liner.
RS (Round Shader). Here, the needles are still in a round formation but are more loosely packed than in a liner. This configuration is great for shading and color fills.
F (Flat). The needles are lined up in a straight row. This configuration delivers precise lines and is also good for shading.
M1 (Weaved Magnum). Needles are arranged in two rows, and this formation is used for broader coverage and shading. It's not common in PMU but can be used in some lip color procedures.
RM (Round Magnum). This is a circular version of the magnum formation and can be used for larger coverage areas.
Taper
This indicates the shape of the tip of the needle. In our example "ST stands for "Short taper." It just shows how tall is the head of the needle measured from the needle top to the side where the needle diameter is constant. The standard version and also the one used commonly is 1.5 mm, which is also known as the 'Short Taper'. Other markings regarding tapers that you might see on cartridge packages are, for example, LT = Long Taper = 2.0 mm and DLT = Double Long Taper = 2.5 mm.
Thus it can be said, that taper refers to the extent to which the needle tapers or narrows from the shaft to the tip. It plays a crucial role in how the needle interacts with the skin, including how much pigment it can carry and deliver, how it enters the skin, and the size and shape of the strokes or dots it creates. Let us go through those options in detail next.
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Short Taper. The term "short taper" refers to needles with a relatively short narrowing or tapering section. The transition from the full diameter of the needle's body to its tip is abrupt in short taper needles. Because of their steeper angle, these needles deliver more pigment and create more significant trauma to the skin, resulting in bolder and more noticeable results.
They're often used for techniques that require a more substantial pigment deposit, such as filling in larger areas or creating more defined lines. However, the additional skin trauma may also lead to longer healing times and potentially more scarring if not managed appropriately.
Long Taper. Long taper needles have a longer, more gradual taper from the body of the needle to the tip. This design allows for a smoother entry into the skin and usually results in less skin trauma compared to short taper needles. Consequently, long taper needles may provide a softer and more subtle result.
They're often used for shading or techniques that require a softer, more subtle effect. Due to the reduced skin trauma, these needles may also result in quicker healing times.
Extra Long (Double Long) Taper. Extra-long or double-long taper needles have the longest and most gradual taper that some cartridge producers also refer to as "double-sharpened taper". These needles are typically reserved for techniques that require the finest detail and the most gentle touch, delivering the least amount of pigment and causing the least skin trauma.
They're often used for procedures that require extreme precision, such as creating super fine hair strokes or subtle shading effects. The gentleness of these needles makes them an excellent choice for sensitive areas or clients, but the results may be too subtle for some applications. In should be noted that many different makers can have different names for their tapers (and also “medium taper” is used). However, the idea is to understand the terminology when it comes to your journey towards the Powder Brows professionalism.
In conclusion, the choice of taper depends largely on the desired effect, the specific technique being used, and the individual client's skin characteristics. A skilled PMU artist will understand how to select the appropriate taper to best meet the client's needs and optimize the results of the procedure.
A few words about Nano needles
Nano-needles, as their name suggests, are ultra-fine needles that are gaining popularity in the permanent makeup (PMU) industry, particularly for creating hair-stroke style powder brows. These needles are often categorized by their incredibly small diameter, typically around 0.18mm to 0.22mm, which is significantly smaller than the diameters of conventional PMU needles. This level of precision makes nano-needles an ideal choice for detailed work.
What Can Be Achieved with Nano-Needles? The primary advantage of using nano-needles is the ability to create extremely fine, crisp hair-like strokes that mimic the appearance of natural eyebrow hairs. This is particularly valuable for techniques like nano brows, where the goal is to create an extremely natural-looking brow that doesn't appear "drawn on."
These needles also offer high precision, allowing PMU artists to create detailed, intricate designs and enhance brows in a very subtle, nuanced way. Additionally, they can help create a lighter, softer effect that's perfect for clients looking for a more natural result.
Pros of Nano-Needles
Ultra-fine strokes. Nano-needles' small diameter allows PMU artists to create the finest hair strokes, which can look incredibly natural and realistic.
Less trauma. Due to their size, nano-needles cause less trauma to the skin compared to larger-diameter needles, leading to potentially less swelling and faster healing times.
Greater precision. The precision offered by nano-needles can allow for greater control and meticulous detail in the artwork, ideal for creating natural-looking brows.
Cons of Nano-Needles
Requires higher skill level. The precision required to correctly use nano-needles means that they demand a higher skill level from the artist. Inexperienced technicians may find them challenging to use. Well, that may be not a con per se, if you are an experienced artist, however, it pays off to be aware of the higher risk level.
Sometimes the results fade faster. Due to the fine lines created by nano-needles, the pigment may fade more quickly than that deposited by larger needles, necessitating more frequent touch-ups.
Not suitable for all skin types: Nano-needles may not work as well on clients with oily or aging skin, as the fine lines may not hold up as well in these skin types.
In conclusion, nano-needles can be a powerful tool in the hands of a skilled PMU artist, allowing them to create incredibly natural-looking, detailed brows. However, like all tools, they are not suitable for all situations and require a skilled hand to use effectively.