Backbone - a vital part of Combo Brows
Let is dive into anatomy of Combo Brows
The “backbone” of Combo Brows is far from an optional, secondary feature that an artist can get around to when they have some spare time on their hands. It is, in fact, the cornerstone of the hair stroke pattern that grounds and influences everything else. Without a solid understanding and mastery of this element, even the most adept Powder Brows skills won't compensate. An exceptional Combo Brow cannot be achieved without a solid “backbone”.
“While there is room for artistic freedom and creativity in designing the ‘backbone’ of Combo Brows, these are paths that should only be ventured after mastering the science, mathematics, and geometry of this critical element. Any attempt to shortcut or bypass this learning can lead straight into a proverbial ‘brow hell’. Mastering the ‘backbone’ first ensures that you’re building on solid ground.”
Understanding the Brow 'Backbone': The Integral Line in Combo Brows
The Essence of the Brow 'Backbone'. So, what is this "backbone" of the brow we're referring to? This term originates from the realm of microblading and refers to the central line where the upper and lower pattern lines intersect. However, it represents much more than just an arbitrary intersection point. Instead, envision it as a convergence of two rivers - the point where their waters unite and flow as one. Hence, it's not simply a series of touchpoints but rather a continuous line, a unified path where the brow's lower and upper lines seamlessly merge. The significance of the backbone becomes even more apparent when we consider how it dictates the direction of most other pattern lines, underscoring its importance in crafting exquisite Combo Brows.
Mapping the 'Backbone': The Start, End, and Shape. To accurately trace the 'backbone' of the brow, understanding its starting point is crucial. This initiation site is typically where the transition from the brow's head lines, which are almost vertical, turns into nearly horizontal lines in the upper brow section. Often, this starting point is determined by the client's natural brow hair growth pattern, particularly where the hairs begin to grow downwards. However, if there are no discernible hairs to guide the process, a reliable fallback is to use the shorter part of the golden ratio, measured between the brow's head and its highest point (point number 2) as the start of the backbone. This means that when you place the golden ratio tool so that one handle is in the beginning point of the upper arch and the other is on top of the highest point of the brow, and the shorter part faces towards the brow head, then the middle handle shows the beginning point of the spine.
The backbone's endpoint is typically point (point number 6) - the highest point of the lower arch. Nevertheless, the end of the backbone can also extend up to the brow tail endpoint (point number 3) depending on the client's brow shape and artist's preference.
The backbone's shape isn't a straight, rigid line, as the term may imply. It should instead mimic the human spine's contours - a stretched-out “S-letter” shape from the starting point to the endpoint. This subtle curvature adds a touch of realism and fluidity to the Combo Brow, enhancing its overall appearance.
Navigating the Connection to the 'Backbone': Avoiding Common Mistakes in Direction and Length
When it comes to merging lines with the brow 'backbone,' artists often fall prey to two widespread errors: incorrect line direction and insufficient filler line length. Let's delve deeper into what these entail.
Correct Line Direction. As you start crafting the lower main lines, each should connect to the backbone in such a manner that an imagined extension of this line would lead directly to the backbone's endpoint. This means the angle at which the lower main line intersects with the backbone should ensure that the continued trajectory of the lower line ends at the backbone's endpoint rather than veering off into the upper brow area. The same principle applies to the upper main lines. These lines should also 'flow' into the backbone, aligning with the directional momentum that guides towards the backbone's endpoint.
Appropriate Filler Line Length. The other common pitfall involves drawing the filler lines, additional strokes that follow the main lines, too short. The first filler line, which is drawn during the first pass with the main line, should ideally flow atop the backbone. However, many artists hesitate to unite two lines atop the backbone due to concerns about overlapping or merging lines. This is only an issue if excessive pressure is applied and if the lines don't fall into the same skin incision. If the lines merely strengthen the backbone without creating parallel strokes, it can be considered a positive attribute, provided the applied pressure is minimal.
Remember, understanding these principles and avoiding these common mistakes is essential to achieving a naturally beautiful and well-structured Combo Brow.
Flexibility with the 'Backbone': Balancing Non-negotiables and Creativity
It's crucial to remember that the concept of the 'backbone' in Combo Brows, like many other aspects of this technique, isn't entirely dogmatic. The existence of the 'backbone' is a steadfast principle—a 'must-have' that is non-negotiable. But, its actual placement and intricacies can significantly vary based on the client's natural hair growth direction, individual preferences, and the artist's skill level.
Adapting to the Client. The height of the backbone, whether it's centrally placed or closer to the upper or lower brow arch, depends greatly on the natural hair direction of the client. The same holds true for its starting and ending points, which we've previously discussed.
Advanced Techniques. Some seasoned artists might even commence the backbone in the vertical center of the brow's head. There are also instances where not just one but two backbones are created for a unique brow design. However, these are advanced techniques that should only be explored after mastering the basics.
Avoid Excuses. A word of caution here: one should never use 'creative backbone design' as an excuse to justify a messy line direction or a faulty pattern. Most often, these mistakes occur due to a lack of knowledge and experience rather than excessive artistic creativity. Always aim for perfection in the basics before venturing into more experimental territories. This balance will ensure that your Combo Brows are always of the highest quality and meet the unique needs of your client.