Organic, Inorganic and Hybrid pigments made easy
Pigmentology made easy
PMU and microblading pigments fall into two categories – organic and inorganic – or a hybrid of the two. To truly comprehend the implications of these classifications, we need to delve deeper into their underlying meaning. In order to excel as a Permanent Makeup (PMU) artist, it's crucial to possess an in-depth understanding of the tools and materials employed in your trade. This includes pigments – an area of knowledge that might initially seem complex but is of paramount importance for delivering superior results.
“Powder Brows pigments can be divided in general into Organic, Inorganic, and Hybrid pigments. Those categories may sound complicated at first glance, however, it is no rocket science - it is just elementary chemistry and most of you will understand the differences very easily.”
Recently, discussions about pigment composition have become more prominent, primarily due to the introduction of the 2022 REACH pigment regulations, which have stimulated interest in understanding the chemical nature of pigments. To support this growing interest, many brands have become increasingly transparent about their formulas and are actively seeking to educate artists about their products.
The distinction between organic and inorganic pigments primarily stems from the source of their respective colorants.
Organic pigments
Organic pigments are primarily derived from carbon-based compounds. These are often synthesized from petroleum products, or in some cases, derived from plant or animal sources. Their molecular structure usually comprises carbon atoms bonded into chains or rings. This carbon-based composition results in a vast array of bright and vibrant colors.
As the pigment particles of organic pigments are formed through carbon atoms bonded into chains or rings, these pigments are noted for their vibrant, intense colors and superior retention due to their smaller particle size. As smaller particles are extracted slower by the body, they tend to last longer, resulting in fewer necessary color enhancements.
Moreover, organic pigments saturate the skin swiftly due to the high density of small particles, allowing for higher pigment saturation with fewer passes. This property also necessitates precision in their application, making them more suitable for experienced artists. It's vital to work diligently with organic pigments to avoid oversaturation. It's worth noting, though, that purely organic formulas are quite rare in the market.
Inorganic pigments
Inorganic pigments, conversely, are typically derived from mineral sources and primarily consist of metallic salts, most commonly resulting from the oxidation of metals such as iron or titanium. Their composition includes metal ions and oxygens, which often yield pigments that are less bright but more opaque compared to their organic counterparts.
As inorganic pigments are derived from metallic oxides, they are less vibrant and offer opacity due to their larger particle size. This larger size also results in faster fading as the body metabolizes and extracts them more readily. In practice, this means more work might be needed during touch-ups.
Despite this, the larger particles of inorganic pigments make them more forgiving and thus, more suitable for novice artists, as there is more room for adjustment and error.
Hybrid Pigments: allegedly the best of both worlds
Hybrid pigments, as the name suggests, are a blend of organic and inorganic colorants. They are designed to combine the benefits and counterbalance the limitations of both types of pigments. Depending on the proportion of organic or inorganic colorants, the formula can lean more toward one type or the other.
Hybrid pigments can achieve a broad spectrum of shades, from vibrant to opaque, and across the warm-cool range. The major advantage of hybrid formulas is balanced fading, thanks to the neutralizing effect of combining organic and inorganic components. Here are the pros and cons of hybrid pigments for the Powder Brows procedure.
Pros of Hybrid Pigments:
Balanced Color Quality: Hybrid pigments offer a broad range of colors, providing both the vibrancy of organic pigments and the opacity of inorganic pigments.
Balanced Fading: The combination of organic and inorganic pigments results in a more balanced fading process. Organic pigments typically fade to cooler hues, whereas inorganic pigments fade to warmer hues. When combined, they can neutralize each other, ideally fading to a neutral tone.
Wide Range of Shades: The combination of organic and inorganic colorants enables the creation of a very wide range of shades, both vibrant and more muted, spanning the warm-cool spectrum.
Cons of Hybrid Pigments:
Complexity in Application: Hybrid pigments may require a higher degree of skill to apply effectively, considering the balance of properties from both organic and inorganic pigments.
Potential Variability in Results: Given their combined nature, the results with hybrid pigments may vary based on the specific ratio of organic to inorganic constituents and the individual client's skin response.
Being competent about the pigments
Interpreting the ingredient list of your pigments is an integral part of knowing your tools. All pigments carry an ingredient list, either on the bottle or in the Safety Data Sheet (SDS). Each colorant, or raw pigment, is identified by a unique Color Index (CI) number.
Numbers 76999 and below denote organic origin, while numbers 77000 and above denote inorganic origin. Remember that pigments usually contain multiple colorants. Therefore, the ingredient listed first on the label is the most abundant, giving you an indication of whether your hybrid pigment leans more towards organic or inorganic. This can help you deduce its performance, retention, and fading characteristics.
While most pigments are available today are hybrids, you can still choose between organic-based and inorganic-based formulas. Ultimately, the best pigment is the one you're comfortable with and that delivers satisfactory results. However, to cater to diverse skin types and achieve different effects, you should learn to work with various formulas.
As such, it's advisable to experiment with different formulas from reputable brands to find the one that suits your work style and meets your client's expectations.
Popular brands for brow pigmentation procedures, such as Powder Brows
After consulting with lots of Powder Brows artists, here are the brands about the high quality there was considerable mutual consensus.
Perma Blend: Perma Blend is a leader in the PMU pigment industry. They offer a wide range of pigments, including those specifically designed for Powder Brows. Their pigments are known for their high quality, longevity, and safety.
Biotouch: Biotouch is a reputable brand that offers a wide range of pigments, including those suitable for Powder Brows. They're renowned for their high-quality pigments and commitment to safety and education in the PMU industry. Many artists also mentioned BioTouch Pure: A sub-line from BioTouch, the Pure series features pigments that are widely praised for their quality and longevity.
Tina Davies I ❤️ INK: Tina Davies is renowned for her collaboration with Perma Blend to create a series of microblading pigments. Her I ❤️ INK line is recognized globally and is popular for its high-quality pigments, especially for brow procedures.
PhiBrows: PhiBrows offers a selection of pigments specifically designed for microblading and brow pigmentation procedures. They're well-regarded for their high-quality pigments.
LI Pigments: LI Pigments is a global company known for its range of safe, high-quality pigments. Their product line includes options suitable for various PMU procedures, including Powder Brows.
MEI-CHA: MEI-CHA is a global company committed to creating safe, high-quality pigments and PMU products. They offer pigments that are used for a variety of procedures, including Powder Brows.
K.B Pro: K.B Pro is a UK-based brand offering a wide range of pigments for various PMU procedures. They are known for their consistent pigment quality and commitment to safety and education in the industry.
Nouveau Contour: A global player in the PMU industry, Nouveau Contour offers a range of pigments known for their quality, safety, and consistency.
Goldeneye: This German brand is well-known in Europe and worldwide, offering a range of pigments for various PMU procedures.
Ever After Pigments: Ever After Pigments offers a variety of high-quality pigments, well-regarded in the PMU community for their color retention and safety.
Amiea: As part of the MT.DERM Group, which also owns Nouveau Contour, Amiea offers high-quality pigments, and their products are well-respected in the industry.
Doreme: This South Korean brand is recognized for its quality and variety of pigments suitable for various PMU procedures.
It's important to note that while these brands are widely recognized and respected, individual results can vary, and artists must understand the properties and behavior of the pigments they're using. Therefore, continuous education and practice are key to achieving consistent, high-quality results.